Sunflower Bakery’s simple greatness: City Juice with John Malik

In a former Pizza Hut building on Wade Hampton Boulevard, Robert Hodges and his smiling crew turn out memorable breakfast goodies and superb sandwiches. The sandwich rolls, loaves of bread, cinnamon rolls and coffee cakes are all made in house.

He didn’t always do so much baking. His Sunflower Breakfast, Lunch & Bakery had been open for a few years and it was during that unmentionable time of COVID-19 that he decided he would learn to bake. When business came back, that skill would help him survive and thrive.

“When I was in high school, I worked at a Chick-fil-A and enjoyed the hustle and camaraderie,” Hodges said. “While studying business at the University of Georgia, I worked in the student cafeteria, and I flipped a lot of omelets. After graduating I spent some time with Table 301 and learned that humility and constant learning is a big part of this business. I believe my best strength is organization. A restaurant has multiple moving parts, and the total skill set needed to run one successfully is not something most people possess. One should partner with or hire someone with the missing ingredient. Marketing, that’s my biggest weakness, so that’s where I had to find help.”

Stop into Sunflower on a Saturday morning and help yourself to a warm cinnamon roll, a thick slice of their coffee cake, or their bacon, lettuce, avocado and tomato sandwich. After a few bites you’re probably going to wish you lived closer or had a Sunflower in your neighborhood.

I know I do.

I love baking those breakfast quick breads, but they should be done the night before to avoid a morning clash with sifting, measuring, whisking and folding. With that in mind, it’s not surprising that Sunflower’s neighbors have adopted the bakery as their own.

Photo by John Olson

“Many of our customers live in a 2-mile radius from the bakery and they’re quite proud to refer to us as ‘their neighborhood spot’ and that’s something every restaurant should strive for — to become a vital part of their neighborhood,” Hodges said.

I’m partial to their SEC (sausage, egg and cheddar) sandwich served on a brioche and sesame seed bun. Recently Sunflower partnered with Revival Butchery and that sandwich now comes with their own sausage patty.

While chatting, we shared stories of learning to understand the allure of a great breakfast.

“Simplicity was my mindset when we opened Sunflower,” he said. “We wanted to serve great food, just not expensive food. Our baked goods are produced with a high level of skill yet they’re also things we’re familiar with. Because who doesn’t love a great coffee cake or cinnamon roll?”

And that’s something I fully agree with.

Sunflower Breakfast, Lunch & Bakery at 728 Wade Hampton Blvd., serves breakfast and lunch Monday through Saturday.

“City Juice” is a colloquial term for a glass of tap water served at a diner. John Malik is a restaurant coach and hospitality consultant. He can be reached at [email protected].

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